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Soul Cuisine in Spain

There are a variety of topics to savour in Spain over Tapas, an informal dining ritual that promotes conversation and goodwill, which the citizens of the enchanting country have helped elevate into fine art. Words flow, the conversation sizzles and humour is never in short supply.

Friends and family exude a special flavour during Tapas, and the Spaniards, a cheerful people with a casual elegance that is difficult to match, can’t seem to have enough of it.

A hard week’s labour is incomplete without restaurant hopping for their favourite social past-time that brings out their interactive skills because good food can unlock the tongue, inspire the mind and release a range of
subtle emotions.

Yes, this is soul cuisine, and when mixed with local wine, it can only uplift the spirits.

These gastronomic delights can vary from region to region, even village to village, explains Alfonso Fernandez, a connoisseur of fine taste in all things Spanish while laying out the table for a new friendship. I must confess here that I’m no gastronome, but the thought of some delectable chatter with new pals is a warm thought.

The cosy restaurant in Cordoba is eager to welcome old regulars and new guests who saunter in after 9pm, the usual time for this meeting-and-eating activity. The lights are low but there is a glint of cheer in Alfonso’s eye and an air of expectation as he holds forth on the subject.

I’m told the fun times can roll till the crack of dawn, or until the taste buds can take it. I realise there’s no music in the background, and the banter all around gives me a sense of harmony.

No one really knows how it all began, but there are three versions doing the rounds. Legend has it that King Alfonso X was advised by doctors to drink some wine during the day to treat some unexplained illness. To avoid the effects of the alcohol, the monarch decided to sip the spirit with small portions of food.

The treatment worked and the happy ruler ordered every bar to serve wine only with food to temper the effects of drink.

Another story has its origins during the rule of Carlos V when horse-coach accidents caused by drunk drivers were getting out of control on the roads. The wise king made it mandatory for bars to serve food with wine which helped reduce accident rates.

Then there’s this tale about Alfonso XIII, who on a trip to Cadiz stopped by in Venta del Chato, a restaurant by the sea for a tipple when sand from the beach fell into his glass. Noticing this, an enterprising server decided to cover (Tapa in Spanish) the glass with a piece of cured ham. The king liked the idea and ordered another Tapa thereby giving a new meaning to 
Spanish hospitality. Modern day Spaniards have carried on the tradition with flair and play the perfect host. So, over luscious olives, Spanish omelette, baby squids fried in olive oil, and fried aubergines, the experience sinks in with a little 
help from friends. I hear no high-pitched arguments, debates or complaints, only simple, subdued chatter from across the room.

Ordinary folks leave their troubles behind at Tapas joints, says Alfonso with a smile. In an age of virtual relationships, they try to keep real ties warm with love and laughter over traditional rendezvous such as these. The feeling matters, he says, snapping me out of my reverie.

Unemployment rates, one of the highest in Europe at a precarious 18 per cent may be giving the government sleepless nights.

But ordinary Spaniards prefer to talk the night away over food, secure in the belief they are in the company of loved ones, while fostering a dining culture close to their hearts.

Stepping outside and standing in the nippy air, the fog over my mind has cleared. There’s a spring in the step on my walk back to the hotel. I now share a rapport with Spain and her people. Buen provecho (Spanish for bon appetit) to that!

Allan Jacob is Chief Sub-Editor of Khaleej Times and can be reached at 
allan@khaleejtimes.com